In Ancient Greece, hair or even the lack of it, was one of the most powerful markers of identity. Hairstyles were not merely a matter of fashion; they carried deep symbolic and social meaning.
The Greeks believed that hair was the seat of life and strength, and that certain styles could enhance vitality or serve as protection against evil.
Because of this, hair held a prominent place in Greek art and literature. The earliest references appear in the works of Homer, where we see for the first time the practice of dedicating hair to the gods or the dead, a sign of reverence and devotion.
Hairstyles in Ancient Greece
An extraordinary collection of more than 800 small female figurine heads, dating from the 3rd and 2nd centuries B.C., is displayed in the Archaeological Museum of Amfissa. These figurines, discovered in the area known as the “Playground,” offer a fascinating glimpse into the hairstyles of ancient Greek women. Bronze and gold spirals were often used both to fasten and decorate the hair, revealing the artistry and care devoted to personal grooming.
Generally, women wore their hair long, symbolizing beauty and femininity.
In contrast, female slaves had short hair, a reflection of both hygiene and social inferiority.
The Archaic Period
During the Archaic period, women typically let their hair fall freely, often held in place by a coronet. Toward the late 6th century B.C., however, it became fashionable to gather the hair at the back and twist it around a band to form the krobylos (bun).
The Classical Period
In the Classical period, women preferred a more refined look. Hair was usually tied in a bun known as the Knidian style, named after the famous statue of Aphrodite of Knidos by Praxiteles.
The Hellenistic Period
Hairstyles in the Hellenistic period grew increasingly elaborate as can be seen in the figurines from Amfissa. The Knidian style remained popular, but by 250 B.C., women began leaving soft curls to frame the neck.
One variation, called the peponoeides or “melon style,” featured deep parallel grooves resembling the ridges of a melon. Another charming style, the tettix, had curls arranged around the forehead like knots or tiny bells.
A particularly striking style was the lambadion, a bun with loose, flame-like strands that evoked the flicker of a torch or the swish of a horse’s tail. But the most celebrated hairstyle of the period was the Herakleion amma, the “knot of Hercules.” It symbolized good fortune and love, with the hair brushed forward and tied to form a bow or butterfly shape.
Accessories and Symbolism
Women often adorned their hairstyles with headbands, diadems, coronets, scarves, and clips (sfikotires). They also used hair extensions and wigs (fenakes), along with garlands of fruit or ivy leaves. The most beloved adornment, however, came from the elichryson (immortal plant), believed to bring serenity and peace of mind.
The Roman Influence
By the Roman period, hairstyles became even more intricate and ostentatious, often named after the empresses or patrician ladies who set the trends. Hair had evolved from a symbol of strength and grace into a powerful statement of status, beauty, and identity.